Questions, answered

It makes a picture bigger without making it blurry, which sounds obvious until you try it any other way. Enlarging a photo normally just stretches the pixels you already have, so a small photo becomes a large soft one. An AI upscaler has been trained on millions of photographs, so it recognises what it is looking at (skin, brick, fur, fabric, printed type) and rebuilds the fine detail at the new size. You get a sharper picture, not a bigger copy of a soft one.

Three steps, about a minute, nothing to install. 1. Drop your photo on the upload box, or click it and pick a file. 2. Choose 2K, 4K, 6K or 8K. 3. Press Upscale Image and wait about half a minute. Your result arrives with a slider you can drag across it to see the before and after, and a Download button underneath.

Upload it here and pick a size. That is genuinely the whole process. Resolution is just how many pixels the picture contains, so increasing it means creating pixels that were not there before, and the only question that matters is whether the new ones belong. Photoshop and your phone's editor will happily add pixels by averaging their neighbours, which is why the result looks soft. This adds detail that matches what the photograph shows.

Resizing in Photoshop, Preview or Paint fills the gaps by averaging the pixels on either side. No new information enters the picture, so edges soften and texture turns to mush: the image is larger and slightly worse. AI upscaling puts an edge where it can tell there was an edge. That is why a 4x AI upscale can look sharper than the original did at 100%, and a 4x resize never can.

An upscaler changes the size. An enhancer changes the look: brightness, contrast, colour, sharpening. They solve different problems and it is easy to buy the wrong one. Upscela does both, but keeps them apart on purpose. Upscaling happens here and costs credits. Enhancing happens in the Edit tab, runs in your browser, and is free.

Yes, though it is worth being clear about what that means. Nothing can recover information a camera never recorded. What a good upscaler does is rebuild detail that is consistent with the rest of the frame, so the enlargement holds together at full size instead of falling apart. In practice, a photo that looked soft at 100% comes back looking like it was shot at the bigger size. What it will not do is invent a face that was three pixels wide.

No. Upscela runs in your browser: Chrome, Safari, Edge or Firefox, on Windows, macOS, Linux, Android and iOS. Nothing to download, nothing to update, and no graphics card needed at your end. The heavy work happens on our servers, so a six-year-old laptop gets exactly the same result as a new workstation.

Yes. The site is built to work at phone width and you can upload straight from your camera roll. One practical note: 6K and 8K results are big files, so those downloads are happier on Wi-Fi than on mobile data. An 8K PNG can be 80 MB or more.

Yes, because your upscales and your credits have to belong to somebody. Signing up takes an email address and nothing else. No card is asked for unless you choose a paid plan.

Yes. Every pair on the portfolio page is a real job through this tool, and the two numbers printed under each one are the file that went in and the file that came out. Nothing there is retouched by hand or swapped for a stock photograph. Drag a slider to the middle and the join is the same picture on both sides, which is the part that would be impossible to fake.

Yes, and it is not a trial that runs out after a week. The free plan gives you credits every month and your downloads carry no watermark, which means the same clean file a paying customer gets. Paid plans add more credits, more upscales running at once, and longer storage. See the plans.

They describe the finished picture, not a multiplier. 2K is roughly the width of a good monitor. 4K holds four times as many pixels as that, and 8K is the largest we offer, which is enough for a wall print. Each step up doubles the detail along every edge. The AI works out the exact dimensions to suit your photograph and always keeps its original shape, so nothing is cropped or stretched and you never have to do the arithmetic.

Social media, a website or a slide deck: 2K is plenty. A product page, a client deliverable or an A4 print: 4K. A poster, a banner, or anything somebody will stand close to: 6K or 8K. If you cannot decide, start at 2K. You can take a finished result up a size afterwards, so there is no penalty for guessing low.

About 30 seconds for 2K and under a minute for 4K. 6K and 8K run a second pass to add detail at that size, so give those a couple of minutes. You do not have to watch. The upload box comes straight back so you can queue the next photo, and everything shows its progress in Recent Tasks.

Yes. There is a button beside your result that takes a 2K up to 4K, or a 4K up to 8K. Where it can, it builds on the image you already have instead of starting over, which is faster and stays truer to the first result. It costs the same as ordering that size directly, so you lose nothing by starting small.

We stop at 8K, and that is a decision rather than a limit we ran into. Past a certain point an upscaler is no longer recovering anything, it is inventing, and the file gets enormous while the picture gets less like your photograph. 8K is already a print roughly three feet wide at full print resolution. If you have a genuine case for more, write to us and tell us about it.

No, and there is no minimum size. Small, old and low-quality photographs are the whole reason this exists. The one caveat is that an upscaler can only work with what it is given, so a 200-pixel thumbnail will give you a good result. It will not give you a miracle. The sharper and cleaner your original, the better every size comes out.

The job is to resolve detail that is already there, not to redraw your picture, so colour, framing and composition come back unchanged. Every result is measured against your original automatically and anything that has drifted too far gets flagged rather than quietly handed over. On very soft or very small sources the model has to fill in more, and that is where a result can start to look interpreted instead of restored. The comparison slider is there so you can judge it yourself before you download.

8K, which for a normal landscape photograph works out at around 11,000 pixels on the long edge and roughly 68 megapixels in total. At full print resolution that is about 37 inches (95 cm) across. The exact numbers depend on your photo's shape, because we always keep the proportions you started with.

DPI on its own is just a label stored in the file. What decides whether a print looks sharp is how many pixels it actually contains, so work backwards: multiply the print size in inches by 300. A 12 by 18 inch print needs 3600 by 5400 pixels, so 4K or 6K. A 24 by 36 inch poster needs 7200 by 10800, which is 8K territory. Upscale to the size that clears the pixel count, then set the DPI tag to 300 in whatever you print from.

At 300 DPI, roughly: 2K gives a sharp 7 by 10 inch print, comfortable for A4. 4K gives around 14 by 19 inches, enough for A3 and most framed work. 6K reaches about 21 by 28 inches. 8K covers 30 by 37 inches and up, which takes care of posters and small banners. Signage read from across a room needs far less, so an 8K file will carry something much larger on a wall.

Yes, quite a lot, and it is worth planning for. A 2K result is usually around 5 MB, a 4K around 20 MB, and an 8K can pass 80 MB. Part of that is the pixel count and part is the format: we deliver lossless PNG, which keeps everything and squeezes less than a JPG would. If you are uploading somewhere with a size limit, pick the smallest size that clears your print or screen requirement, or export a lighter JPG copy from the free editor.

Because your photograph's shape is preserved exactly, and the size is a budget, not a fixed width. A square picture and a wide panorama contain the same number of pixels at a given size, so the panorama comes back longer on its long edge and the square lands nearer the nominal figure. That is why sizes are quoted as a minimum: you will get at least what the label says, and often more. Nothing is ever cropped or stretched to hit a round number.

Anything in focus and not heavily compressed. Portraits, product shots, landscapes, architecture, interiors, artwork and film scans all do well. The strongest results come from pictures that are small but sound, because a sharp 800-pixel photo gives us far more to work with than a blurry 3000-pixel one. Screenshots of dense text, heavy JPEG artefacts and motion blur are the hard cases.

Some kinds of blur, yes. Softness caused by a small file, by over-compression, or by a bad enlargement somewhere in the past will clean up well. Blur from the camera moving, or from focus landing behind the subject, is missing information rather than missing resolution, and no upscaler anywhere can put it back. The rough rule: if you cannot tell what something is, neither can the model.

Yes, and faces are where the difference is most obvious. Skin texture, eyelashes and loose strands of hair come back as real detail instead of smooth plastic. One warning worth reading twice: on a face that is only a few dozen pixels across, the model has to invent more than it recovers, and you can end up with a convincing face that is not quite the right person. Check the slider before you use a heavily enlarged portrait anywhere identity matters.

Text that you can already read will sharpen up cleanly, and so will labels, packaging and signage in product photography. Text too small to read in the original is the classic failure case for every AI upscaler, ours included: what comes back is letter-shaped marks that are not the letters. For a logo you need at print size, upscaling gets you a usable image, but rebuilding it as vector artwork is always better if that option exists.

Yes, and line art does especially well. Clean edges and flat colour give the model unambiguous structure to follow, which is exactly the situation it handles best. Brush strokes and line weight come through unchanged, because the point is to resolve what the artist drew and not to reinterpret it.

Yes, and it is one of the most common things people bring here. Most image generators produce something around 1024 pixels square, which is too small for print and too small for a large screen. Running that through an upscaler is the normal last step, and it works well because generated images arrive clean, with no camera noise and no compression damage.

Yes, and it is one of the things it does best. Scan the print at the highest resolution your scanner offers and upload that. Film grain comes back as grain, not as a smooth grey wash, so the picture keeps the character it was made with. Do read this part though: it restores detail. It will not remove scratches, stains or creases, and it will not colourise a black-and-white photograph.

Yes, and this is one of the clearest commercial cases for it. Amazon, Flipkart and most other marketplaces set minimum image sizes and reward photographs a customer can zoom into, and a phone shot that looked fine as a thumbnail often falls short. Upscaling to 4K keeps weave, stitching and label text readable at full zoom, so one photograph can carry the listing, the thumbnail and the ad.

Interface screenshots, charts and slides do reasonably well when the shapes are clean and the text is big enough to read. Dense body text at small sizes is the weak spot, for the same reason as any other tiny lettering. If you can retake the screenshot on a higher-resolution display, or at a browser zoom above 100%, that will beat upscaling it afterwards every time.

You can, but going round the loop repeatedly is usually a mistake. Each pass builds on the invented detail from the last one, so the picture drifts further from the photograph you took and starts to look processed. If you want a bigger result, order the bigger size in one go, or use the step-up button beside your result, which is built to do this properly.

Technically it will work, and web images are usually small so the improvement can be dramatic. Legally, that is your call to make: upscaling somebody else's photograph does not give you any right to use it. For your own photos, your client's photos, or images you have licensed, you are fine.

The honest list, and worth reading before you spend a credit. It will not correct motion blur or a missed focus. It will not read text that was never legible. It will not remove scratches, dust, stains or watermarks, and it will not colourise black-and-white. It does not change your framing, your lighting or your composition. What it does is make the picture you took larger and sharper. For cropping, straightening and colour work, the Edit tab is free and costs no credits.

JPG, PNG and WEBP, which between them cover almost everything that comes off a phone, a camera, a design tool or an image generator. HEIC from an iPhone and RAW from a camera need exporting as JPG or PNG first, which most photo apps do in a couple of taps. Whatever you send, the result comes back as a PNG.

Uploads can be up to 25 MB, which covers a full-resolution photograph from any phone and from all but the largest camera sensors. Our own results are not measured against that limit, so "Upscale to 8K" on a finished picture always works no matter how big the file we handed you is.

Almost always one of three things: the file is not a JPG, PNG or WEBP (HEIC catches people out most often), it is over 25 MB, or it is not really an image despite the extension, which happens with files renamed by hand. The message will say which. Convert or re-export and it will go through.

Always PNG, on every plan and at every size. PNG is lossless, so the file you download holds exactly what was produced, with none of the blocking and smearing a JPG adds around edges and fine text. That matters most in the places people upscale for: print, packaging, a product page zoom. It is also the format print shops and design tools expect, so nothing has to be converted on the way.

Because it is lossless and it is genuinely that big. A 4K result is usually around 20 MB and an 8K one can be 80 MB or more, and that weight is all picture, with no padding in it. A JPG of the same picture would be a fraction of it and would throw away detail you paid to have made. If you need something lighter for a website or an email, open the result in the free editor and export it as a JPG or a WEBP at whatever size you want.

Yes, and it costs nothing. The Edit tab takes any image and exports JPG, PNG or WEBP, with a quality slider and a background colour for the transparency JPG cannot carry. It runs in your browser, so the picture is never uploaded again and no credits are spent. Keeping the PNG as your master and exporting smaller copies from it is the right way round: you can always make a JPG from a PNG, and never the reverse.

Yes, in two ways. Start one upscale and the upload box comes straight back, so you can send the next without waiting. Or use the Batch tab, which takes up to 20 pictures in one go and prices the whole run before you commit. Either way, how many actually run at the same time depends on your plan (Free 1, Starter 3, Pro 8 and Max 20) and the rest wait in the queue.

No, on any plan, including the free one. A watermarked download is not a working image, and charging to remove one is charging twice for the same job. You get the clean file at the size you asked for.

Everything you want to do to a photograph before you enlarge it: crop, straighten, rotate, set an exact size or aspect ratio, and adjust brightness, contrast, saturation, warmth, tint, highlights and shadows. There is an Auto button for a sensible starting point and a live histogram so you can see what you are doing. It is free and costs no credits, it runs entirely in your browser, and when you are happy there is a button that hands the edited image straight to the upscaler.

Before, nearly always. Crop first and every pixel you pay to enlarge is a pixel you are keeping, so all that resolution goes into the part of the frame you care about. Crop afterwards and you are throwing away detail you already paid for. Cropping is free in the Edit tab.

Yes. Download the result and open it wherever you like, including our own Edit tab. Colour and contrast work happily after an upscale. Cropping is the one thing better done first, for the reason above.

Yes, and it is the Edit tab. Drag a box over the picture, pull any of its eight handles to size it, and drag from the middle to move it. Lock it to a ratio (1:1 for a profile picture, 16:9 for a video thumbnail, 4:5 for a portrait post) or type exact pixel dimensions. Nothing is uploaded, nothing is watermarked, and there is no account to make. Crop before you upscale and every pixel you pay for lands in the part of the frame you kept.

Open it in the Edit tab and drag the Straighten slider until the horizon or the wall edge sits level. Tilting a picture leaves four blank corners, and the editor deals with those for you: it works out the largest rectangle of the same shape that is still all photograph, and crops to it. You never have to fix the corners by hand. It is free and it happens in your browser.

It depends which direction you are going, and they are two different jobs. Making a picture smaller loses nothing that matters, and the Edit tab does it free: set the width or the height and export. Making one bigger is the hard direction, because the detail is not in the file to begin with. Ordinary resizing invents the missing pixels by averaging their neighbours, which is exactly why an enlarged image goes soft. That is what the upscaler is for: it reconstructs detail instead of smearing it, and it keeps your picture's own shape while doing it.

Yes, free, in the Edit tab. Open any image, choose the format at the bottom of the tools panel, and export. There is a quality slider for JPG and WEBP, and a background colour for the transparency JPG cannot carry, so a logo on a clear background does not land on black by surprise. The conversion happens in your browser, so the file is never uploaded and no credits are spent.

Export it as a JPG or a WEBP from the Edit tab and pull the quality slider down until the size suits you. WEBP is usually the smallest at the same quality, and every current browser reads it. You can drop the pixel dimensions in the same pass if the picture is going somewhere it does not need to be large. All of it runs in your browser, so it is free and nothing leaves your machine.

No. Everything in the editor happens inside your own browser: the picture is never sent anywhere, nothing is stored, and it keeps working with the network off. That is also why it costs no credits. The only moment a file leaves your machine is when you press Upscale.

Yes. On a narrow screen the tools move underneath the picture instead of sitting beside it, so everything is still reachable, just stacked. Dragging the crop box, its corners and the sliders all work with a finger exactly as they do with a mouse.

No. The Edit tab opens to anybody, needs no sign up, spends no credits and never uploads your picture: every crop, adjustment and export happens inside your own browser. An account is only needed for the two things that cost real money to run, which are upscaling an image and buying credits.

Your credits come straight back. Anything that fails, times out or gets cancelled is refunded automatically, without you having to notice or ask. You are never charged for an image you did not receive.

Making a picture from a description, rather than enlarging one you already have. Type what you want, choose a shape and how many, and press the button. It is the one tool here that starts from nothing, which is why it sits beside the upscaler rather than inside it.

5 credits each, flat, whatever shape you choose and however many you ask for. Four images is four times that and the panel says so before you press anything. There is no volume discount here on purpose: a number you can check in your head is worth more than a discount you have to trust.

About 1K on the long edge, which is the right size for something you are about to look at and decide about. If you want it bigger, every finished picture carries 2K and 4K buttons that upscale it properly, and an Upscale button that hands it to the Upscale tab where all four sizes are.

Yes, and it is an ordinary upscale in every way. Point at a picture in the feed and press 2K or 4K: it runs, it is charged at the usual price (2K 20, 4K 30, 6K 40 and 8K 50 credits by size) and it appears in Recent Tasks like anything you uploaded. The Upscale button underneath sends it to the Upscale tab instead, if you would rather choose 6K or 8K, or crop it first.

Yes. Switch to Image to Image at the top of the panel and attach a starting picture, then describe the change you want. The prompt still matters: the picture says where to begin and the words say where to go.

Up to 4 in one press. Each one is its own job with its own seed, so four variations really are four attempts rather than one picture repeated, and if one of them does not come out only that one is refunded.

They stay on the Generate page, newest first, each run headed by the prompt that made it and when. The feed survives a reload, so you can scroll back through everything you have made. Every picture has its own download and delete buttons, and they are kept for the same window as an upscale: Free 3 days, Starter 1 week, Pro 15 days and Max 30 days.

Upscaling a lot of pictures in one go. It is the same tool as the Upscale tab with the same four sizes at the same prices; the only difference is that the canvas holds a grid instead of one photograph. Drop your files in, pick a size, and the receipt beside the grid shows what the whole run costs before you commit.

Up to 20. How many of those run at the same time is your plan's own number (Free 1, Starter 3, Pro 8 and Max 20); the rest wait in the queue and work through in order, so a big batch finishes whether or not you are watching it.

The size's own price times the number of pictures, and nothing else. The four sizes are 2K 20, 4K 30, 6K 40 and 8K 50 credits, so ten pictures at 4K is ten times the 4K price. The receipt beside the grid does that arithmetic as you add files, so the total is on screen before you press anything.

Batch upscaling is on the paid plans. The free plan runs one upscale at a time, which is most of what a batch is for, so there would be little for it to do. The pricing page shows which plans include it and how many pictures each one takes.

Only that one is affected. Every picture in a batch is its own job, charged on its own and refunded on its own, so the others carry on and finish normally. The card for the one that failed says so, and its credits come back automatically.

One credit is one unit of upscaling, and bigger pictures cost more of them: 2K 20, 4K 30, 6K 40 and 8K 50. Each month your plan runs, it brings that month's credits. The cost comes off when a job starts, which is why a failed job is refunded and never simply lost. Your balance sits in the top right of every page.

In credits: 2K 20, 4K 30, 6K 40 and 8K 50. The ladder climbs in even steps while the pixel count does not, so an 8K image holds sixteen times as much as a 2K one and costs two and a half times as much. That is on purpose, because the large sizes are where an upscaler earns its keep. Full pricing.

Yes. Single images start at ₹40 with no plan needed, which is the right choice when you have one poster to print and no workflow to run. If you find yourself buying several, a plan works out cheaper per image.

UPI, major debit and credit cards, and net banking, all in Indian rupees. Card and UPI details go to the payment provider and never reach our servers.

Every price here is in Indian rupees, and the figure you see is the figure you pay. We are not registered for GST, so no tax is added at the checkout and nothing new appears there. Every purchase gets a receipt.

There is nothing to cancel. A plan is paid for one month or one year at a time and never renews by itself, so no further payment is taken unless you make it. Your plan runs to the end of the time you paid for, and each month's credits can be used until that month ends. If you paid by mistake, write to info@upscela.com from your account address within 7 days.

Nothing renews by itself, so a plan is renewed by paying for it again. In its last 3 days the button on your plan on the Pricing page reads Renew plan. Pay then and the new credits arrive the moment you pay, while the new month, or year, begins when the current one ends, so the days you have left are kept. After a plan has ended you can still choose it again, and it then starts the day you pay.

Only in its last 3 days, when it can be renewed. Before that there are two ways to more: buy credits, or move up to a bigger plan. Both take effect the moment you pay. A smaller plan can be chosen once the one you are on has ended.

Because nothing renews by itself, an email is the only warning there is. We send one on each of the last 3 days of the plan you are on, and one when it has ended, and they stop as soon as you renew or move to another plan. Every one carries a link that stops them. Receipts and sign-in links are not affected by it.

Plan credits refresh each month; they do not accumulate. Pick the plan that matches what you actually use, and ignore the biggest one on the page. If you renew before a month ends, the new month's credits arrive at once and what is left of the old month can still be used until its own last day. Credits bought as a single image are not on a monthly cycle at all.

Yes, if all three are true: the purchase was a mistake, you ask within 7 days, and none of the credits have been used. Email info@upscela.com with your account address and order number. Separately, if a plan does not do what this site says it does, ask regardless of the time limit. That one is on us. Credits for a failed upscale come back automatically and need no request at all.

Nothing happens to pictures you have already made: each one is kept for as long as the plan it was made on promised, even after that plan has ended. Once your plan ends the account is on the free plan, so pictures made from then on are kept for the free plan's shorter time. Download anything you want to keep and there is nothing to worry about.

Not as a self-serve product yet. If you are processing a catalogue, running a studio pipeline, or want upscaling inside your own application, write to info@upscela.com with a rough monthly volume and we will work something out.

Yes. Your images are visible to you, in your account, and are never published, browsable, shared or sold to anybody. Everything travels over an encrypted connection. They are processed to make your result and for nothing else.

It depends on your plan: Free 3 days, Starter 1 week, Pro 15 days and Max 30 days. After that the original and the result are both deleted automatically. Storage here is a convenience so you can come back for a download, not an archive, so save anything you want to keep.

Yes. Every finished job in Recent Tasks has a delete control that removes the original and the result immediately. A job still running has to finish or fail first, because the file is being written while it works.

You do. What you upload stays yours, and so does what comes out of it. We claim no rights over either, and we do not use customer pictures in our own marketing. Every sample on the Portfolio page is our own material.

Yes, on every plan including the free one. Client work, print, product listings, advertising, whatever you need. The only thing we cannot grant is a right you did not have to begin with, so upscaling somebody else's photograph does not make it yours.

No. Your uploads are used to produce your result and then deleted on your plan's schedule. They do not go into a training set, ours or anybody else's.

Card and UPI details are entered with the payment provider and never touch our servers, so there is no card number here to leak. We keep what a receipt needs, meaning what you bought, when, and for how much. Nothing beyond that.

Yes. Email info@upscela.com from your account address and we will remove the account along with every image and every original still stored against it. What we have to keep afterwards is the bare record of any purchase, because tax law requires it.